How luxury watchmaking has become a fabric of Switzerland’s heritage

Category: (Self-Study) Lifestyle/Entertainment

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Inside workshops, watchmakers assemble movements by hand, working with components often smaller than a millimeter, where tolerances are measured in microns.

It’s this level of skilled, painstaking craftsmanship that has defined Switzerland as a global hub for luxury watchmaking.

Much of the value in high-end mechanical watches comes from what are known as complications, additional functions built into the movement beyond telling the time. These include chronographs, which measure elapsed time, perpetual calendars that automatically adjust for different month lengths and leap years, and tourbillons, which are a rotating mechanism designed to improve accuracy by counteracting the effects of gravity.

The most complex watches can combine several of these functions into a single mechanism, sometimes made up of hundreds or even thousands of individual parts.

The foundations of this industry date back several centuries, developing into a decentralized system across Switzerland.

Watch journalist and collector Robert Jan Broer explains how that system evolved.

“Switzerland is the heart of watchmaking basically, and what happened is that there were a lot of farmers in Switzerland, and during summer they were farmers, but in the winter they had to find different things, so they started making little parts of watches and clocks and become suppliers to watch brands that basically collected all these parts from different farmers or watchmakers or watch part makers in Switzerland and put them together and then sell them worldwide.”

What Broer is describing began in Geneva in the mid-1500s, when strict religious rules limited the wearing of jewelry, pushing skilled metalworkers to focus on watches instead.

Over time, watchmaking spread beyond the city into rural areas, where people began producing small parts at home during the winter months, when farming work slowed down.

Those individual parts were then brought together by watchmakers, who assembled complete watches and sold them.

By the 1700s, this system had grown into a structured industry, with different areas specializing in different parts of the process, some focused on making springs, others on cases, and others on assembling and finishing the final watch.

This article and video were provided by The Associated Press.

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[Watchmaker assembling an Audemars Piguet watch in its Geneva laboratory]

[Large model showcasing the moving complications of an Audemars Piguet watch]

[Bridges over the river Rhône in Geneva]

[Swiss flag flying over a rooftop]

[High street with luxury watch shops]

[Large clock outside JB Blancpain’s Geneva store, the brand deemed as the oldest registered watch brand in the world]

[Piaget watch through shopfront window]

[Piaget signage outside a Geneva shop]

[High street where luxury watchmakers have their stores]

[Jaeger-LeCoultre shopfront signage]

[Omega store signage]

Robert-Jan Broer (interview): “Switzerland is the heart of watchmaking basically and what happened is that there were a lot of farmers in Switzerland and during summer they were farmers, but in the winter they had to find different things so they started making little parts of watches and clocks and become suppliers to watch brands that basically collected all these parts from different farmers or watchmakers or watch part makers in Switzerland, and put them together and then sell them worldwide.”

[Exterior of Rolex store and watches as seen through shopfront window]

[Exterior of TAG Heuer store]

Robert-Jan Broer (interview): “You have Geneva, of course, where some big brands are located like Rolex and Patek Philippe, but there’s more in Switzerland, so there’s also a German part where you will see brands like AWC (Alexander Phillip Watch Company), for example, or you see Omega in Biel, that is also on the border of the French and the German speaking part. So it’s basically, in all of Switzerland, you will find watch companies. So it is really a Swiss thing and not only a Genevan thing.”

[People walking past Audemars Piguet’s laboratory]

[Audemars Piguet 2024 Royal Oak Concept on display]

[Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 self-winding chronograph watch on display]

[Sand timer on display]

[Sundial display]

[Miniature model showcasing how time works astronomically with a small model of Earth and other planets in the solar system]

[Watches and Wonders sign on high street]

[High street visitors looking through shopfront windows]

Robert-Jan Broer (interview): “Besides watches and wonders, you see that in Geneva, it’s very lively around watches. So we have more initiatives around brands introducing their novelties here. So there’s Chronopolis, there’s Time to Watches, and a lot of brands are in hotels, renting conference rooms or just hotel rooms or suites to show you their new products. The ripple effect is that it’s this one week per year that watch journalists, editors, but also collectors and end consumers, they come from all over the world to Geneva to see their favourite watches or to discover new watches from new brands.”

[People drawing on a large “W AND W” sculpture in the city center]

[Jet d’Eau water fountain]

[Swiss flag on a rooftop in the city center]

This script was provided by The Associated Press.